Beeta Baghoolizadeh writes, “When talking about the diversity of Iran, most people will recall the various ethno-linguistic groups that are equally native to the Iranian plateau, like Persians, Azeris, Gilakis, Baluchis [...] In these discussions, however, Afro-Iranians and those of African descent are often ignored. Perhaps this stems from their limited exposure in mainstream Iranian culture. Or maybe it is because the legacy of African slavery in Iran contradicts the ever-so-pervasive Aryan myth of perfection and civilization. Regardless, most Iranians forget the Afro-Iranians and their rich traditions, despite their prominent cultural influence that persists today.”
This dish, named Hawari Mahi, is from Hormozgan in south Iran, bordering the Persian Gulf. Due to its proximity to the sea, fish is a staple in Southern cooking, and due to East African and Indian influences on cooking, we often find hot and spicy food using ingredients which are unique to the Southern provinces. This dish is a fragrant spicy rice made with tomatoes, coriander, tamarind and spices paired with my well-loved, tender jack-fish (jackfruit fish).
Despite centuries-long presence in Iran, Black Iranians are regularly written out of national historical narratives. The majority of Afro-Iranians came to Iran via the Indian Ocean slave trade, a trade route between East Africa and the Middle East. Not many Iranians are aware of Iran’s past in the slave trade, or Black Iranian presence in the country and their part in shaping Iran’s identity, culture and collective narrative.
For example, the typical Iranian’s most well-loved type of Iranian music is Bandari music, which originates from the East African roots of the Afro-Iranians in the South, but few are aware of this. According to Baghoolizadeh, Bandari music and dancing have its roots in zar and gowati, the belief that dancing has healing properties; zar is a belief that people can be possessed by up to seventy-two different kinds of winds. The belief in zar can also be found amongst indigenous populations in Egypt, Sudan, and Ethiopia.
@thecollectiveforblackiranians is an incredible collective formed of voices of Black and Afro-Iranians; they weave together their memories, stories, art, experiences to combat anti-Black racism within the Iranian community and to say “we are here”. Their work is beautiful, sensitive and empowering and a reminder of the overlooked Black Iranian community.
Mahdi Ehsaei curated a photograph series named Afro-Iran, with corresponding research and interviews with people of Southern provinces. Scholars such as Beeta Baghoolizadeh and Behnaz Mirzai have carried out research and writing on the history of Black Iranians and Iranian culture.
I hope you enjoy this dish. Eat, enjoy, reflect and appreciate the beauty of the beautiful South!
Find more interesting links here.
Main Course
24 hours
40 minutes
1 hour
4-6
Rice:
3 cups basmati rice
4 tomatoes, chopped
1 bunch coriander, chopped
1/3 block of tamarind
1 yellow onion, finely sliced
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
½ tsp turmeric
Jack-fish (Jackfruit “Fish”):
Marinade:
2 sushi nori seaweed sheets
3 cloves of garlic
3 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 tbsp miso paste
1 tsp grated ginger
1/2 cup of boiling water
The juice of half a lemon
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
Other:
500g drained young/green jackfruit
3-4 tbsp of sesame oil for frying (or any other if you don't have access)
Jackfruit Fish (to be marinated the night before):
1. Rip up the sushi sheets and with the rest of the marinade ingredients, blend it all together in a food processor. You should have a green paste.
2. In a bowl, cover the drained jackfruit pieces with the marinade entirely. Keep the pieces as large as possible.
3. Cover the bowl with cling film and leave it overnight in the fridge up until 48 hours. Toss around or flip over if using a flat container at the half-way mark.
4. When the rice is ready, in a frying pan, heat 4 tablespoons of sesame oil and fry the jackfruit pieces until golden brown on both sides. Don't scoop the marinade off the jackfruit before frying. Go ahead and fry it with the marinade on top.
Rice:
First cut the tamarind block into a third and leave to submerge in 1 cup of boiling hot water.
In a large pot, fry the sliced onion in 2 tbsp oil until translucent, then add ½ tsp of turmeric and sautee for a further 2-3 mins.
Add the chopped tomatoes and coriander, as well as the paprika, chilli, salt and pepper and sautee for another 5 minutes.
Next add in 3 cups of washed and drained rice and stir.
Return to the tamarind and ensure that it is cool to the touch. Use your hands to detach the pulp from the stones, squeezing the tamarind between your hands.
Use a colander to drain the tamarind water from the stones, and add the tamarind water into the rice pot. Discard the stones.
Ensure that the rice is covered by 1inch of water, add more if it is not.
On a high heat, let the mixture come to a boil then turn it to a low heat. Use a damkoni or dishcloth to wrap the lid and place the lid on the pot. Allow it to steam on low heat for at least 40 minutes.
10 minutes before you are ready to serve, fry the jackfruit-fish.
Serve together, with coriander for garnish, and sides of vegan yoghurt and torshi.
Enjoy!